Interchangeable Needle Case

Lately I have become interested in wooden interchangeable needles. My metal Addi needles are quite blunt, which is not a problem in itself, but some projects are easier on sharper needles.

I'd been looking for metal interchangeable sets, but Hiya Hiya sharps were too sharp for me. Likewise ChiaoGoo. Ages ago I had purchased KnitPro tips and cable set for a reason now lost in time.

I quite liked the sharpness of those tips, but I did not like wearing off the nickel plating in one project. Enter wooden KnitPro needles. I had a set of Symphony short straights I had purchased with an intention to use them as spindle shafts, but hadn't found the right whorls for the multicoloured shafts.

I tried them out on a project and fell in love with the tips, and how the wood felt in my hands. I had had avoided using straights for decades, until I tried these. Turns out 25 cm is my ideal length of straight needles. I love using them for scarves and shallow shawlettes.

Now the problem is that when you also love knitting big Stephen West shawls, short straights won't really cut it. Hence the acquisition of some interchangeable tips in shawl sizes, and every cable length from 60 cm to 150 cm.

Which in turn introduced the problem of storage. I did not want to buy another set of needles with a case when I only wanted two sizes of tips. Tempting as those sets may be, I am trying to exercise some restraint here.

So, storage. When I need something like this that could be hand made, I look on Etsy. Surely, someone is already making what I need and I can buy it. Usually that is true, but not always.

What I found was close, but not quite what I was looking for. Most of them were in a needle roll style, or folded, both of those very bulky. One seller had this accordion style, but all her cases were pastel, or pink. The trouble with that is that I do not like pastels, or pink.

They didn't have a closed pocket either and I wanted a place for all the end caps and cable keys that was secure. They closed with a button, which I also dislike. Of course, the obvious solution to all these dislikes was to make one exactly as I wanted it to be.

So I did. It has a place for everything — the tips, the cables of all sizes, the caps, the keys, cable connectors, even stitch markers.

I mulled over the zip insertion and accordion attachment until I was happy with the method, and went fabric shopping in my stash. And then I went fabric shopping in a store because nothing I had was appropriate for the lining, and I didn't have big enough pieces of black scraps.

Somewhere along the way my idea of getting only two sizes of tips for shawl knitting morphed into building an interchangeable set with tips from different brands that are manufactured by KnitPro and fit on the same cables. That is still at an idea stage.

It would be fun, though. Not unlike the Dreamz set, but each pair of tips from a different brand or line. Maybe in the future I will arrange a swap of needle tips. Maybe.

For the time being, I am so pleased with my interchangeable needle case that is in the colours I like, and fits all my shawl knitting needle parts in 10 x 12 x 4 cm ultra compact package. With plenty of room for more tips and cables, should my collection grow in the future.

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Pincusion & New Trousers

It was way past time to sew another pair of trousers with pocket origami. Good thing that I had enough foresight to write down the instructions for the pockets, or I would have had to figure it out all over again.

Since I can't make the mess on a sewing table look glamorous, here is a photo of a pincushion I made for my new sewing machine to start you off. I used a piece of black melton as a base, and crochet cotton as the thread for the Estonian archaic embroidery.

Here is a photo of the sewing table. I moved it into that corner and keep it at cutting height. I still haven't covered my pressing hams, but they work just as well like they are. The two black pieces hanging down are the trouser fronts with top front pockets pinned to them.

I used my old sewing machine for zig-zagging the edges, and the new one for seams and topstitching. I used normal thread for topstitching, so this time it was fine. Next time I am planning to use thicker topstitching thread and then I'll use the old machine for seams as well.

I do love the new machine for the control it gives me through the speed control adjuster. It made topstitching the corners so much easier and more precise. I also love that I can make finer adjustments to the needle placement and that there are more than two stitches it makes.

There is no photo of the trousers themselves because they look exactly like the previous pair. I decided not to go with red topstitching or details this time, but to stick to the black. Maybe next time?

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Handmade Gifts, Continued

Mum forwarded me the photos she took of the pouches. For her gift I chose the colours and patterns I knew she liked. All the florals probably also contributed to why it was such a struggle to get them done.

But what is the point of giving a gift that is not to the taste of the recipient? I don't think there is any, so I try to make the things the recipient will hopefully like. Even if it means sewing with florals, or knitting in pink, or sewing pink florals...

Here they are, all 28 of them.

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Handmade Gifts

I went nuts last year. In the summer I got this idea to knit up some handspun gifts for my family. The idea was sparked by the shawl I spun and knit for my aunt. I figured that if I started in July, I'd have plenty of time to spin and knit for 6 people. Right?

Wrong! Three people got sewn gifts because I seriously ran out of time. Even with sewing, I was late. If I had visited over the holidays, I would have made it, but I didn't. I was late booking tickets, and I was late sending the package. All the manic crafting pre-holidays resulted in my one and only resolution for next year — no hand made holiday gifts in 2017!

Enough of whinging, on to the fun stuff!

First was the scarf for my dad. He picked the fibre, and gave me this desired measurements, I made up the pattern. Reportedly he is pleased with it. I love how the yarn turned out and I am chuffed that he likes it and will use it.

Next were the gloves for my brother. I didn't have the right fibre for "no stripes", so I went and bought some new fibre. I stripped the blue and the green braids into tiny slivers, mixed them all up, combination drafted them into three singles, and the 3-ply still came up stripy! Happily, that level of stripyness was deemed to be not too stripy, and they fit. All in all, success!

Convertible gloves for SIL. She picked the yarn that I'd spun as an experiment, and requested the convertible mitt tops. I had so much trouble with these. First, trying to find a pattern that showed off the two different yarns, then to find a pattern with the convertible tops.

I am disappointed in two counts. One, the colours, and two, that there was not enough contrast between the 3-ply and the chain ply. So in the end I found a normal convertible pattern that fit my yarn and tension. I knit the cuffs and fingers with the 3-ply yarn and the palms and tops with the chain ply. I haven't heard back on those, so I have no idea if she is as disappointed with the colour as I am.

By the time I'd finished these, it was too late to try to spin and knit three more presents, so I switched to sewing. Mum requested small pouches to keep hear beads in, so I made 28 of them. This is what I meant when I said I went nuts. They may have been tiny, but in hindsight, 28 was a lot of pouches. In my holiday tradition is to forget to photograph at least one hand made gift before giving it. This year it was the pouches. I've asked Mum to snap a photo, but I haven't received it yet.

So. Why 28? Because I bought two of 5x5 cm pre-cut quilt square packs and used up all the squares. Three per pouch — two for sides and one for the drawstring tunnels. I forget exactly how many squares there were per pack, but they together made 28 pouches. In adding to the madness, I bought a new sewing machine to make these.

While I was dreaming up this project I realised that I needed features that my old machine did not have. The old machine was basic when I bought it in 1995, and it's ... less than basic? ... in today's standards. It does straight stitch and zig zag. That's it. There were more reasons to buy a new sewing machine. Like a topstitching foot, stretch stitches, three-step zig zag for sewing bras, and so on. I'll get into those when I do a post about it, but suffice to say, that I am very happy with my new "basic" machine.

The feature I needed for the bags was an overlock stitch that would bind and sew in one pass. I would have had to sew each seam (5 per pouch) twice with my old machine, and I really, really did not want to do that. As it was, even with the reduced number of passes, the first three or five pouches were fun, the rest were a pure grind. I grit my teeth and persevered, but that was painful to get through.

This proved my teenage self right — I knew then that I'd survive in a factory setting, doing the same thing over and over again, two weeks tops. I am never going to do this kind of project ever again! I love the result, my Mum was overjoyed, but I will not do a factory manufacture style project like this again. I have learned my lesson.

Sewing for fun again! This is a shark-whale mashup pencil case for my nephew from a free pattern on Craftsy. Simple, quick, fun, using both hand sewing and my new machine. My nephew started literally bouncing with joy when he unwrapped it. He LOVES it, with capital LOVE. This right there made all the effort for all the gifts worth it.

One more fun project. A flying squirrel for my niece from a free pattern on the internet. She is one year old, so she had no opinion on this, but I didn't expect any at that age. I had fun hand sewing it, and if she will play with it in the future, that's just a bonus.

That makes six gifts. I started in July and finished in December, and I won't be repeating this performance again for 2017. I love my family and I wanted to make them something special, but I am going to take a year off from this kind of pressure.

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Syfestivalen

Syfestivalen started today and I was able to visit this time. I'd wanted to go for years, but something always came up. Not this year, though!

I had ordered the festival catalogue, made my list of things to look for, and pre-purchased a ticket. As I went through the ticket gates, I thought that I'd lucked out and there were not that many people about.

As if! Friday being a working day was no hinderance whatsoever. Still. I was there and I had a shopping list, so I braved the masses and bought stuff.

I found everything on my list, and then some more. First, I looked at every booth, paying attention to those that had what I wanted. Then I went back to those that had caught my eye and/or I'd specifically had wanted to visit.

First stop: Limmo-design. This shop is the whole reason I wanted to go to Syfestivalen this year to begin with. They sell Schacht spinning wheels and wool for spinning, and they had brought all of the wheels (except Reeves) to try. Including the new Flatiron! It was awesome to see the wheels and be able to sit down and spin to also get the feel of the wheel.

I tried Sidekick first and made friends with it immediately. It was set up as Scotch tension which is the same as my Hansen miniSpinner. I quite liked it, but the wheel I had wanted to try most was the Matchless, so i moved on. It was set up as double drive and it pulled so hard! I had really difficult time to get it to the level of takeup that I was used to. I couldn't get it to work, so instead of getting more and more frustrated, I moved on to Ladybug.

Ladybug was also set up as Scotch tension, but the treadling feel was entirely different from Sidekick. Eventually we agreed to disagree and I moved on to the final wheel, the Flatiron. It was set up with the flyer opposite to the traditional wheels, and with Scotch tension. It was pretty much a no-go from the start. I did not like the treadles, and the orifice was in an awkward position. I went and sat with the Sidekick for a little while before going to their shop for some wool.

There I bought one braid of red hand painted corriedale, a small bundle of red Swedish leicester locks, a small black project bag with knitting sheep, and two black braids of BFL. I am so happy about the black BFL! Black wool is hard to find to begin with and when I can find some, it is merino. I love BFL, it is so silky, soft, and smooth. Wool I had intended to buy, but I could not resist a black bag with sheep on it.

Second stop: Johanssons Lamm & Ull. They sell wool and other sheep products. Their wool is meant for felting, but they had boxes of dyed locks of gotland, so I had a rummage. I found two handfuls of red locks that are perfect for blending into sock yarn to add strength.

Third stop: Gudruns ullbod. They sell wool for spinning and Ashford spinning wheels among other stuff. They didn't have any wool that tempted me, but Ashford hand cards caught my eye. The pair I have is not really great for fine wools, which is what I like to spin. They had mini cards with 108 TPI cloth. I asked if I could try them and was handed a pair plus some wool. The wool was luscious merino/silk blend, and these cards did a good job blending the two different colours in just two passes!

They also had an Ashford Joy out for trying so I took my rolag and tried to spin it to see how it drafted. Me and Joy did not make friends. It was massive tug-of-war and the rolag was finished before I could adjust the wheel to spin the way I wanted. I gave up on that entirely and went and bought the cards because they had made such a beautiful and smooth rolag. I have small hands and the handles fit quite well too. Completely unplanned, but not previously unwanted. I had considered buying hand cards with finer teeth for a while, but I didn't know if I should go for 90/100/120 TPI or what. 108 apparently hit my sweet spot.

After that I took a food break and then visited with the Schacht Matchless again. We did make friends eventually, but the double drive took me some getting used to. The reason for wanting another spinning wheel (specifically a treadle wheel) is textured yarn. Many of the techniques require stopping the wheel immediately to manipulate the yarn, and I can't do that with the miniSpinner. It has a soft stop and I have to keep drafting while it stops, which takes a while. If I choose a Schacht, I have to decide if I get a Matchless after all or the Sidekick. I also want to try Spinolution, but their Swedish reseller didn't come to Syfestivalen this time.

Fourth stop: Engströms Artstudio. They had paper and other scrapbooking things. I was looking for some paper that was printed on both sides to make some ornaments with. I found some lovely wintery prints and washi tape. I also got out of there as soon as was possible to prevent buying more papery things just because they are pretty. That took some willpower, but I managed somehow.

Fifth stop: Quiltameva. They had these really cute mini square packs (and other quilt stuff) that had caught my eye. I was paying special attention to quilting booths because I have a specific gift project in mind and these are perfect for it. I also found a hexagonal quilt block ruler which I wasn't originally looking for, but they didn't have hexagonal paper piecing templates that were big enough. This ruler will do just fine.

Sixth stop: Söders Tyger. I wanted to see what kind of sewing machines are available, and what the price range is for the ones with the features I want. I found a PFAFF model that does everything I want and has a minimalist design, and is not too expensive. I didn't buy it because I want to do more research and then make a decision.

Seventh stop: Novita. I wanted some Pikkusisko sock yarn, but it was discontinued. I got to practise my Finnish! It's still there. Not fluent any more, but perfectly adequate still. The factory booth was more a display of their newest lines, so they directed me to their reseller Tiina's garn.

On the the way there I made my eight stop: Garn & Väv Mix i Byn. They had a tower of Kauni which I didn't get to investigate earlier because there were so many people there. Here I found a black and red gradient that will become some kick-ass socks. The ball is a whopping 170 g, so I'll get at least two pairs out of it. Unplanned, because I didn't have specific yarn in mind to buy at Syfestivalen (other than black and/or red), but I had intended to buy some yarn IF I could come up with a project for it immediately.

Ninth stop: Tiina's garn. Here I got to dust off some more Finnish, and found the Pikkusisko I'd been after. Novita's new sock yarn is called Venla and they had one perfect red ball left. Two more pairs of socks, one is going to be Villiviini with red lace on black. I may use the remaining red as-is, or make some red/black colourwork socks, or red gloves.

Tenth and final stop: Elena Teplykh. She had these utterly gorgeous black boxes painted in Russian one-stroke style. Utterly unplanned, but I simply had to get a tiny one for my sock stitch markers. Tiny box for tiny stitch markers, it was too beautiful to pass by. Somewhere along the way I also acquired two nålbinding needles, but I can't remember between which stops it was. Unplanned, but again, something I had wanted for years and had intended to buy some day anyway.

I was on my way home when I made the final stop. It was close to the closing time and I had found all that I had been looking for, and then some, but not too much. I had a lovely time chatting with folk about spinning and yarn, and fondling all the fabric, paper, yarn, and wool I could get my hands on. I shall definitely visit next year again.

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Long Overdue Photos

This is how the trousers I made last year with all that Pocket Origami look on me.

And a close-up to show off some of the pockets. I love not having to carry a purse around, although in some days the trousers can get sort of heavy. I wear this pair more than any other that I own.

The trousers are starting to show wear, so I better start on new pair(s) before the inevitable happens and these cannot be mended any more.

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Avocado Hoodie

The weather is turning and autumn is nigh. It was time to sew up the hoodie pattern I bought last year, but didn't need because the weather stayed so warm for so long.

The pattern is Avocado Hoodie +. Last year I started the pattern prep, but didn't get to the tracing off stage. (I know you don't have to trace PDF patterns, but I do not have a printer and I did not want to impose on a friend every time I needed to make a pattern alteration.)

I made size 2XL on the top, enlarged to 3XL at the bottom, with more alterations to the pattern. I also used a different fabric than the recommended ones. I chose black cotton interlock knit for the body, and red ribbing for the cuffs and pocket lining.

I added a front zipper to make it more like a light jacket, and a short liripipe to the hood because I love this little medieval detail on my clothing. I omitted the bottom band because it was long enough on me without it.

It is entirely hand sewn. It is such a pleasure to hand sew knits that I do not mind the time it takes. I am loving the process of hand sewing. Except sewing heavy zippers like this one because the zipper tape is a bit unwieldy, but if I want to wear a jacket, in they go.

Before starting the construction I read the instructions and watched the videos with detailed instructions, and it went together just fine. I can definitely see myself making another one in all black and trumpet sleeves. And maybe a third one with red trumpet sleeves from the elbows down... Or a black one with red sides and hood... So many possibilities for variation.

I am very impressed with the fit through the bust. It was spot on! The princess seam bust curve was perfect and did not require any alteration to fit perfectly. The pattern maker explained why that is in her post about the plus size hoodie.

I made the sleeves exactly as they are in the pattern, but I am finding them slightly too tight for me and about 5 cm too short. The tightness is the style but the shortness means that I can't actually wear them with my thumbs through the holes for long. I can feel the shoulders being pulled down and it is quite uncomfortable that way.

I'll set aside a weekend for all the ripping of the seams and redrafting of the pattern. None of this is is a complaint against the pattern, it is just how my arms are built. The pattern has kindly provided a lengthen/shorten line for the sleeve just for this alteration.

Overall I am happy how it turned out. There are details I can do better next time, naturally, but I try to learn from every project i make. When I stop finding things to improve, I stop learning. I don't ever want to stop learning.

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Knitting Again

After Tour de Fleece I was feeling like knitting again. There has been a lot of spinning since I got my Hansen miniSpinner and not a lot of knitting. Unfortunately all the spinning during TdF aggravated the old RSI in my right wrist. I still spin, but I can do so little at a time, that it's not worth showing.

Knitting to the rescue! I can't not do something with my hands, so I cast on a couple of things. Only two because I already have a pair of gloves going on, and a KEME hat. They both need me to pay attention, and it is way too hot for that. I wanted something nice and mindless.

Now, before you can cast on a new project, you must make a project bag for it, right? No? That's just me?

Regardless. I wanted to make some more wedge bags and I found this fabulous owl fabric while I was in a fabric store looking for some cotton for bags. It is not cotton, it is upholstery fabric, which is perfect because it doesn't need any interfacing to make it stiff enough to stand up on its own.

On a previous shopping trip to a fabric store I'd found a grey owl fabric which is light enough for linings. It is a bit flimsy, though, so I could have used some light interfacing on it to make it less floppy. I bought a full metre of the black owl fabric and the grey owl remnant was quite large, so I'll get quite a few bags out of them.

The one with the red zipper is the noodlehead large size, but it won't fit a sweater project. It is a shawl size for me. Right now it contains 5 x 50 g balls for my Leftie II. I loved knitting and wearing the first one so much that I wanted another one that is black and red, and bigger.

The other project bag is the right size for a sock project (noodlehead medium). Last winter I realised I do not have enough red socks, even though I had enough red yarn for several pairs of socks. I did cast on for a red pair in January, but the winter was over before they got finished. This time I am determined to knit a few red pairs before the winter starts.

This yarn is Regia Relax Color and is a recent acquisition. I wanted to try making socks on two circulars again, and naturally I had to check if the store had red sock yarn. Of course they did. I now have enough yarn for 7 pairs of red socks. 8 if I use the leftovers for a pair of scrappy socks. That ought to be enough pairs to satisfy my need for red socks.

While I was shopping I exercised some self control and bought only two balls of Regia, and one Zauberball. At one point I had a lot more yarn in my basket, but I decided that I did not want to knit plain socks in single colour. I want the yarn to be the interest, not the stitch pattern. I had originally bought the Zauberball for socks as well, but it is a singles yarn, and it probably won't last for very long as socks. So, I changed my plans and chose to make a Nurmilintu with it.

I have decided to always have one sock project going on in addition to other knitting/spinning/sewing/etc. projects. They are perfect for the time when the fingers are restless, but the brain is tired. I have my sock recipe memorised and it is simple enough to remember even through brain fog.

When I run out of the red yarn, or need a break from the red, I have other colours of socks to knit for other people. I also want to knit up some of my handspun that has been accumulating. There are lots of project ideas whizzing around in my brain. Some of those may even materialise as finished objects.

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New Dress

There has been some spinning going on, but things take a long time when the single is so fine. I'm still not done with the first ply for Mum.

However, there was a reason why there wasn't as much spinning over the weekend as usual. I finally got on with making the first of the two planned 1920s house dresses. I used the same pattern as for the costume slip I made for the New Years' party, but I extended the bodice up to the shoulders and added some sleeves.

I used the machine on this one, but I didn't much enjoy the process. And I managed to stretch the neckline. I am mightily tempted to sew the next one by hand. The sewing machine was this close to being tossed out the balcony door. It kept breaking the thread, then it broke the needle, and messed up the hem. Ugh! Hand sewing is so much more relaxing than this!

Yeah. It looks like a shapeless black blob. It's black and this style is like a T-shirt with a skirt, so not fitted at all. Optimum conditions for looking like a blob. I do have a waist, but this is meant to be worn at home and I love the freedom of movement of this style. It can be as boxy as it is supposed to be.

I did try it on and the fit was absolutely perfect. The neckline is a bit too wide, but that is easily adjusted on the next dress. It is just the right amount of swish combined with the flat front, and it hugs my back in just the right way. I love that the fullness is at the sides, and that it is not binding anywhere.

All that remains is to tie off the threads and give it a good press.

Then to make another.

Sewn by hand.

Probably.

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1920s Party Frock

My friends invited me to a New Year party themed "The Oriental Express". At first I thought — 1930s, Poirot; but then I reconsidered and went with 1920s instead. Off to internet I went to research and ended up on Pinterest with tousands of photos of dresses, slips, underwear jewelry, hair, accessories, and makeup. I even found patterns and sewing instructions there, which I could follow to the original sources.

I made a few things for this party. I even bought make up! And wore it too along with an Eton crop hairstyle with curls. I made a foundation slip, a dress, a sash, a necklace, a bracelet, and three pairs of earrings (I was on a roll). The final style inspiration photos and the pattern is on my Pinterest board. That way this post won't be any more photo heavy than it already is.

The jewelry was finished first. I wanted a long beaded necklace that is so iconic for 1920s. Panduro has an ok selection of beads, but these glass ones were closest to the inspiration pictures I could find. I stringed the beads alternating one large and one medium on a fishing line for the necklace and stretch cord for the bracelet. Since I have a pierced helix in addition to ear lobes, I made a special earring for that as well.

The foundation slip (or a costume slip, as the pattern calls it) is made from black tabby viscose. Everything is hand sewn with french seams and catch stitch hems. I followed the sewing instructions on the pattern and it went together really quickly. It was finished in only two days. If I had used a machine, it would have only taken a few hours.

Hip detail. After I'd pinned it together wrong (french seams go wrong sides together for the first pass, not the usual right sides together, and I always forget at least once during a project) at first, it really was not as fiddly as I'd anticipated. On the hanger the sides droop, but on me, the hips lift the sides and the hem is level.

The dress is made from polyester chiffon (I could not find silk chiffon), also hand sewn with whipped french seams and hand rolled hem. The seams are not as tiny as the instructions say because I need not to zone out and do my default 6-7 mm seams when hand sewing. If I find silk chiffon, I may do this again and use properly tiny seams. The skirt is a simple square that I hemmed first. After I sewed and hemmed the bodice I cut the round hole in the square and sewed the skirt to the bodice.

Detail of the hem. I did not enjoy working with polyester, it feels so icky in my fingers and it frayed like mad. I was still finding stray hairs that had worked their way out while I was taking the photos. Ugh. However, it was good practice. I had not done a proper teeny hand rolled hem before and this dress had plenty of hem to practice with. I ran out of time and hemmed the sash on the machine the day of the party.

This being the first try, there are things to improve on: foundation slip neckline is too high, the shoulder straps could be a little slimmer, the right one needs to be moved (it keeps slipping down), dress front V is too low, and the seams in chiffon could be tinier. I could remake the foundation slip top and that will fix all those things. I have enough fabric left for longer shoulder straps, but I want to get back to spinning and knitting.

Apart from those minor details, I am pleased with what I've made. I had so much fun researching, and making this whole project. The viscose is absolutely luscious, and a pleasure to sew and wear. I love it so much that I'm contemplating sewing a few home dresses with it from the same slip pattern. The jewelry set may get worn to modern formal occasions, if any come up. I am really chuffed how they turned out.

The party itself was really fun with good food, a murder mystery game (of course, it's Oriental Express!) which my team won, lovely guests, and awesome hosts. Not only did I have fun researching and making, I had even more fun at the party. Here is to an awesome 2016! Terviseks!

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A Little Window Lamp

You know, trawling auction sites is like a disease. Sometimes it gets better and sometimes it gets worse.

Worse in this case meaning I buy stuff. This little lamp became mine because it sort of but not quite matches the window lamp I already had and no one else wanted it because...

The covering of the cord is completely shredded and the original shade is so badly faded, it's orangey pink instead of teal. See the colour difference? The chocolate brown is the original colour of the cord, I'll spare you from seeing the shade.

Luckily I knew a store where I could buy a new cord, and making a new shade from a scrap of linen was no trouble at all. I also replaced the original 60W (!) light bulb with 2W LED bulb, and I now have an adorable little window lamp for the kitchen.

As I was extracting the cord from the bulb socket, I saw that the insulation around the wires was crumbling. Combine that with the shredded cover (I didn't see any exposed wires there when I inspected the cord, but it was only a matter of time), and it means that I would have electrocuted myself, or Sona, or caused a fire if I had not replaced cord.

The reason for all the damage was that the little bakelite bumper ring had come loose from the hole where the cord passes through the foot into the stem. I discovered it hanging out with the plug and relocated it back to the hole to protect the new cord. A reason why no one thought to turn the lamp upside down and screw it back in completely eludes me.

On one hand, changing a vintage item hurts, but on the other hand, it's not a rare or valuable vintage, and I want to use it safely. I've been holding back on changing the first little lamp because that shade is more complicated and someone already did change the cord, but this "makeover" has been so successful that I've even bought the new cord and some red fabric for the inner layer of the shade.

If I get to that project this year is another matter entirely. I have a 1920s frock to make for a party, and some gift knitting to complete.

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Haute Couture

This is why Haute Couture is so expensive. That is incredible amount of work that went into creating that coat.

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WIPs and FOs

Knitting

I bought some special yarn for a special project while I was in Ireland. The project was coming along nicely until...

Tragedy! I ran out of yarn that is unobtainable. Ugh! I have at least three options to choose from on how to proceed and I'm still ignoring this project because I wanted it to turn out as it was meant to. And it won't.

I ripped out the black and red Leftie because I really did not like the texture knit on 3 mm needles; it was so stiff and harsh. The next attempt was on 3.5 mm needles, which turned out too loose. The 3.25 mm will probably be ok, but it was almost time for TdF and this project too went into a major time-out.

Sewing

I made a light summer hoodie out of a dress and a skirt, both going unused because I'd stopped wearing dresses and skirts a while back. Due to the lack of suitable mirrors and lighting, this is just as impossible to photograph as the trousers. (I guess I've discovered the only downside of wearing black exclusively.)

This is a photo of the zipper installation inside and outside to give you an idea of the details. The hoodie is based on Deer and Doe Plantain T-shirt pattern. I added a hood, modified the neckline, added the front opening, made it shorter, added pockets, and made the sleeves flared below elbows.

The whole thing is entirely hand sewn with back stitch and then the seam allowances were tacked down with running stitch in medieval style. The pockets are also attached with a double row of running stitch.

Added front patch pockets to the proof-of-concept trousers. At one point of wearing them I had to go out with a bag because there was not a single pocket on any item of clothing I had on. None! That had to be fixed. Again, black on black, difficult to get a good photo.

I used the same pocket template as for the trousers and sewed them on by hand with two rows backstitch. This photo is taken after sewing, but before I remembered to remove the cat hair. Hence the extra fuzz in this photo.

Spinning

Finished off some Romney locks that were sent to me as a sample. The longer skein is the result of experimenting with different drafts, spun from the flicked locks. The shorter skein is spun worsted from the rolags carded from flicking waste. Longer is chain plied, shorter is 2-ply, and I haven't got the faintest idea what to do with either. There is so little and the longer experimental skein is so uneven, I am not sure if it ever will become anything except yarn.

Finished off the chocolate embroidery thread. I'm still spinning the Nepal wool, but it is so rough that it is not pleasant to spin at all. There is so little of it left, that I persevere, although I am not sure why. There is no purpose for this yarn other than to spin it. I should probably just declare the experience over and quit while I still retain a desire to make fluff into yarn.

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Pocket Origami, in Fabric

Even though it looks like there are 8 pockets on these trousers, there are actually 12 — two at the back, two top front, two below knee, two middle right thigh, and four middle left thigh. To be honest, the two at the back are there just for visual balance, I hardly ever use them. I considered leaving them out, but it felt weird to have all these pockets front and side, and none at the back.

Sewing all of these took more time than sewing the trousers themselves, and gave me a complete understanding why this style trousers at the stores cost twice as much as a normal pair. All these pockets and top stitching takes for ever! Not to mention all the hardware which I omitted... it all adds up. For the amount of work that goes into making them, even in a factory, I'd say they were very reasonably priced.

Sadly, the RTW doesn't fit me any longer and although I like the abundance of pockets, I want them without the hardware for a change. None of these pockets are overly complicated to make and I could possibly remember all the folding down the line. But knowing me, it's a good idea to write down the folding and sewing order now, before I forget completely and have to spend extra time on pocket origami next time.

Back pockets

The simplest of them all. Straightforward patch pockets.

1. Fold side seam allowances and press.
2. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
3. Fold hem twice and press.
4. Topstitch the hem.
5. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge around the sides.
6. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge.

Top front pockets

Semi-patch pockets with curved opening and pretty facing.

1. Sew facing seam, clip, turn, and press.
2. Fold the other side of facing and topstitch both edges.
3. Fold long side seam allowance and press.
4. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
5. Leave top and short side seam allowances unfolded, they are going to be sewn into seams.
6. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge at long side and bottom.
7. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge and basting in the seam allowances at the side and top.

Pockets below the knees

Patch pockets with pleats for space and flaps.

Pocket body

1. Topstitch the pleat folds, press the pleats.
2. Fold side seam allowances and press.
3. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
4. Fold hem twice and press.
5. Topstitch the hem.
6. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge around the sides.
7. Sew velcro patches to the pocket.
8. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge.

Pocket flap

1. Sew velcro patches to the flap.
2. Fold the flap side seam allowances and press.
3. Fold the flap in half and press.
4. Topstitch around the three sides twice: at 7 mm and at 2 mm.
5. Fold the top seam allowance and press.
6. Attach flap by topstitching twice: at 2 mm and at 7 mm.

Pair of phone pockets

Pleated patch pockets from facing fabric, inside the left thigh pocket.

1. Fold side seam allowances and press.
2. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
3. Fold hem twice and press.
4. Topstitch the hem.
5. Attach pockets by topstitching the centre line.
6. Then the sides at 2 mm from the edge.
7. Fold and press the pleats.
8. Topstitch the bottom closed 2 mm from the edge.

Pockets mid thigh

These have the most complicated construction of the pockets on these trousers. They have a pocket front with incorporated zippered pocket, gussets for space, and flaps. At first the zippers were meant to be just for decoration and then I got the idea to make them functional and use the same fabric for the incorporated pocket lining as for top front pocket facing and phone pockets. I am very pleased with how they turned out — pretty and functional.

Pocket front

1. Topstitch pocket front 7 mm from the pocket edge around the sides.
2. Sew the pocket front to the bottom of the zipper.
• Pin wrong side of fabric to wrong side of zipper making sure the fabric ends 3 mm from the edge of the zipper tape
• Stitch close to zipper teeth.
• Turn pocket front down and press.
• Topstitch 2 mm from the edge of the zipper tape.
• Topstitch close to zipper teeth, but not as close as the seam
3. Sew velcro patches to the pocket front.
4. Sew the facing to pocket lining.
• Pin right side of facing to the wrong side of lining aligning the edges
• Sew 1 cm from the edge.
• Press seam allowances towards the facing
5. Sew the facing to the top side of the zipper.
• Lap 1 cm of the right side side of facing to wrong side of zipper, pin
• Topstitch 2 mm from the edge of the zipper tape.
• Turn facing down and press
• Topstitch through all layers of facing close to zipper teeth enclosing all raw edges.
6. Baste the lining and the front together in the side and bottom seam allowances.

Pocket sides

1. Fold and press the gusset seam allowance on one long side.
2. Fold and press the gusset short seam allowances.
3. Sew the gusset to the front.
4. Turn and press.
5. Topstitch 2 mm from the edge around the sides.
6. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the gusset edge.
7. Sew the gusset shut for 5 cm from the opening on both sides.

Pocket flap

1. Sew velcro patches to the flap.
2. Fold the flap side seam allowances, and press.
3. Fold the flap in half, and press.
4. Topstitch around the three sides twice: at 7 mm and at 2 mm.
5. Fold the top seam allowance, and press.
6. Attach flap by topstitching twice: at 2 mm and at 7 mm.

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