An Estonian girl who has found a home in Sweden.

Showing posts with label research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label research. Show all posts

Monday, November 23

KEME Test Knit #2a

November 23, 2015 Posted by Vaire , , ,

For the second test knit assignment I was given an interpretation of a pattern detailed in “Textile Conservation and Research” by M. Flury-Lemberg. Item no. 26 Men’s hats from the shipwreck of Gnalic, page 471. I have that pattern and I also have my own interpretation, which is not identical to the test pattern.

The interesting thing about this pattern is that it does not make a flat fabric, but a conical one. That saves time and yarn, and wool can be stretched into the desired shape quite easily.

I decided to do both to have a side-by-side comparison. Both version have quite a few guesses because the pattern in the book is not as specific as modern knitting pattern usually are. I can't wait to see some photos of these caps to see how my guesses measure up!

KEME Cap #2a

I started with my interpretation to have that out of the way before starting on the assignment test pattern. I have chosen not to stack the increases and decreases, and kfb as the increase.

KEME Cap #2a

I only washed and gently stretched the crown into shape, no fulling or using a form to block the crown. Hence the wrinkles. The crown is 34 cm in diameter vs. 30.57 of the original, but I expect it to shrink with fulling.

KEME Cap #2a

Yeah, I didn't weave in the end. Partly because I don't know if they did, and partly because I can snip it off after fulling. The brim is also hand stretched, and not very evenly either. There will come a time in this project when I'll toss all the test caps into a washing machine and full the lot of them. There will be a proper and tidy blocking after that.

KEME Cap #1 and #2a

I chose the same kind of wool to knit the cap #2a as the first one, but the needles 0.5 mm larger (as specified in the 2nd test pattern). I measured the time spent knitting for this one as well, and it took me 863 minutes to complete this one. Compare that to the 1664 minutes it took me for the first cap. The difference in needle size is too small to explain the difference, I believe the difference comes from the pattern.

Friday, November 13

KEME Test Knit #1

November 13, 2015 Posted by Vaire , ,

As soon as I heard about this project Knitting in the Early Modern Era: materials, manufacture and meaning (KEME) on Ravelry, I signed up. How could I not? It combines my love for research and my love for knitting in a way I have dreamed of for years.

To my delight, I was accepted as a re-enactor, and was asked to test knit a pattern. The first test knit cap was form a modern pattern that approximates a 16th century shape, but not very well. I chose to use 8/2 wool which felts beautifully, and makes a fabric that is really nice weight for a hat.

KEME first test knit

This is why the pattern produces a modern cap: big wedges like this are not present in any period hats I've seen nor visible on any photos high res enough to see the stitches.

KEME first test knit

Another reason this cap is modern: ribbing. Again, not present in any caps I have seen. Also ribbing is generally dated to 17th century, not 16th.

Other than the quibble about the modernness of the first pattern, I'm enjoying the discussions and test knitting for this project immensely. I can hardly wait until I'm able to see some really good quality photos of extant caps and perhaps be able to reverse engineer some period patterns! The excitement is building!