An Estonian girl who has found a home in Sweden.

Monday, August 17

Pocket Origami, in Fabric

17.8.15 Posted by Vaire ,

Even though it looks like there are 8 pockets on these trousers, there are actually 12 — two at the back, two top front, two below knee, two middle right thigh, and four middle left thigh. To be honest, the two at the back are there just for visual balance, I hardly ever use them. I considered leaving them out, but it felt weird to have all these pockets front and side, and none at the back.

Sewing all of these took more time than sewing the trousers themselves, and gave me a complete understanding why this style trousers at the stores cost twice as much as a normal pair. All these pockets and top stitching takes for ever! Not to mention all the hardware which I omitted... it all adds up. For the amount of work that goes into making them, even in a factory, I'd say they were very reasonably priced.

Sadly, the RTW doesn't fit me any longer and although I like the abundance of pockets, I want them without the hardware for a change. None of these pockets are overly complicated to make and I could possibly remember all the folding down the line. But knowing me, it's a good idea to write down the folding and sewing order now, before I forget completely and have to spend extra time on pocket origami next time.

Back pockets

The simplest of them all. Straightforward patch pockets.

Trousers
  1. Fold side seam allowances and press.
  2. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
  3. Fold hem twice and press.
  4. Topstitch the hem.
  5. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge around the sides.
  6. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge.

Top front pockets

Semi-patch pockets with curved opening and pretty facing.

Trousers
  1. Sew facing seam, clip, turn, and press.
  2. Fold the other side of facing and topstitch both edges.
  3. Fold long side seam allowance and press.
  4. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
  5. Leave top and short side seam allowances unfolded, they are going to be sewn into seams.
  6. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge at long side and bottom.
  7. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge and basting in the seam allowances at the side and top.

Pockets below the knees

Patch pockets with pleats for space and flaps.

Trousers

Pocket body

  1. Topstitch the pleat folds, press the pleats.
  2. Fold side seam allowances and press.
  3. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
  4. Fold hem twice and press.
  5. Topstitch the hem.
  6. Topstitch 7 mm from the edge around the sides.
  7. Sew velcro patches to the pocket.
  8. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the edge.

Pocket flap

  1. Sew velcro patches to the flap.
  2. Fold the flap side seam allowances and press.
  3. Fold the flap in half and press.
  4. Topstitch around the three sides twice: at 7 mm and at 2 mm.
  5. Fold the top seam allowance and press.
  6. Attach flap by topstitching twice: at 2 mm and at 7 mm.

Pair of phone pockets

Pleated patch pockets from facing fabric, inside the left thigh pocket.

Trousers

  1. Fold side seam allowances and press.
  2. Fold bottom seam allowance and press.
  3. Fold hem twice and press.
  4. Topstitch the hem.
  5. Attach pockets by topstitching the centre line.
  6. Then the sides at 2 mm from the edge.
  7. Fold and press the pleats.
  8. Topstitch the bottom closed 2 mm from the edge.

Pockets mid thigh

These have the most complicated construction of the pockets on these trousers. They have a pocket front with incorporated zippered pocket, gussets for space, and flaps. At first the zippers were meant to be just for decoration and then I got the idea to make them functional and use the same fabric for the incorporated pocket lining as for top front pocket facing and phone pockets. I am very pleased with how they turned out — pretty and functional.

Pocket front

Trousers

  1. Topstitch pocket front 7 mm from the pocket edge around the sides.
  2. Sew the pocket front to the bottom of the zipper.
    • Pin wrong side of fabric to wrong side of zipper making sure the fabric ends 3 mm from the edge of the zipper tape
    • Stitch close to zipper teeth.
    • Turn pocket front down and press.
    • Topstitch 2 mm from the edge of the zipper tape.
    • Topstitch close to zipper teeth, but not as close as the seam
  3. Sew velcro patches to the pocket front.
  4. Sew the facing to pocket lining.
    • Pin right side of facing to the wrong side of lining aligning the edges
    • Sew 1 cm from the edge.
    • Press seam allowances towards the facing
  5. Sew the facing to the top side of the zipper.
    • Lap 1 cm of the right side side of facing to wrong side of zipper, pin
    • Topstitch 2 mm from the edge of the zipper tape.
    • Turn facing down and press
    • Topstitch through all layers of facing close to zipper teeth enclosing all raw edges.
  6. Baste the lining and the front together in the side and bottom seam allowances.

Pocket sides

Trousers
  1. Fold and press the gusset seam allowance on one long side.
  2. Fold and press the gusset short seam allowances.
  3. Sew the gusset to the front.
  4. Turn and press.
  5. Topstitch 2 mm from the edge around the sides.
  6. Attach pocket by topstitching 2 mm from the gusset edge.
  7. Sew the gusset shut for 5 cm from the opening on both sides.

Pocket flap

  1. Sew velcro patches to the flap.
  2. Fold the flap side seam allowances, and press.
  3. Fold the flap in half, and press.
  4. Topstitch around the three sides twice: at 7 mm and at 2 mm.
  5. Fold the top seam allowance, and press.
  6. Attach flap by topstitching twice: at 2 mm and at 7 mm.